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Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DEWALT DW733 12-1/2-Inch Portable Thickness Planer at Amazon.com. Read honest and unbiased product. The manual recommended 3/32' for hard maple so I just wanted to see what would happen if I pushed the envelope. I have no problem with sticking with their. View and Download DeWalt DW733 instruction manual online. 12-1/2' (318 mm) Heavy Duty Portable Thickness Planer. DW733 Planer pdf manual download.
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I purchased the DW733 Type 1 from a guy that had tore it apart, so currently it is in pieces. He said that it began to make a noise, I found that two of the chain sprokets had broken teeth. I am going to order new sprockets, chains and bushing. The problem is I can figure out how to get the outside connecting chain on, but I cannot figure how to get the drive chain on.
Both chains are the same length, but the drive chain seems to be to long or there is an idler gear that is missing from the parts I received. However I do not see an idler sprocket in the parts breakdown. Does anyone have a picture better then the parts assembly that shows the configuration of the chains? I have owned my DW733 for about 13 or 14 years with not one problem. Then all of a sudden one day I was using it and it ran fine until I put the material through it, then the best way to describe what happen is that it sounded like it either hit something or that it was stopping very quickly. When this happens the whole motor jerks then it keeps going for an irregular period of time and does it again.
I have looked at the belt,chains and sprockets and have found nothing wrong. It only does it under load, any amount of a load from 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch. As I said I have never had any problems before. Any thoughts? I found on my planer that I bought used was doing the same thing.
What I found was the chain drive from the motor to the first sprocket on the roller was jumping the teeth every one in awhile. The roller binds up in the bushings because of the springs below them are pushing up in the middle of the bushing while being held down in their place on the outer edge by the brackets thus straining the roller and after awhile too much resistance builds up from the friction from worn bushings and roller shaft caused this. I experienced the same issue. I poured penetrating oil and 3 in 1 oil for a period of time onto the rusted aras of the struts only to have no results I decided on another approach.
I took the top off of the machine to get a better look. I removed the struts (part #24)one at a time and sanded them with 600 grid wet/dry paper and cleaned the rust from the brackets that the struts ride in, oiled the struts and replaced. I also inverted the struts prior to installing them, since either end is interchangeable, due to some pitting at the lower end. This totally cured the problem. The cutter head raises and lowers like new even with a broken crank handle. Hope this helps.
Manual For Dewalt Dw733 Planer
I had the same problem caused by elongated wear in drive side bushing. (the feed roller to the rear or discharge side of the machine) The bushing is on the left side when you feed material in.
I had trouble loosening the Phillips head screws holding the bushing in and worried about striping the slot out. By using a stubby Phillips head driver and lowering the head until the screwdriver bottomed out and couldn't spin out of the screw, I was able to grab it with channel locks to get the leverage to break it free. That would be a good place for a low head Allen head instead of a Phillips. Quick and dirty fix- I ordered a new part but needed to be up right away and I noticed that the bushing is square. Therefore by turning it 180 degrees the unworn part is against the load and it functions like a new bushing, the worn out section doesn't come into play.
I wouldn't recommend it for more than a quick, dirty and emergency fix though. Doing so will allow the feed roller to sit in a lower position when no under load. I have replaced gear 38 in the diagram once already. It broke or should I say split in two again. Is there anyone that can help me with the reason behind this. The machine has about 2 hours on it and broke down the first time after about 20 min. Worth of use.
Could it be a faulty chain? I'm ready to throw the machine away at this point.
Sears where it was purchased has commented that I'm taking to much meat of the wood. I told them that the wook I'm running threw it is cedar by 4' wide and at 1/8th inch in depth. Help, help, help. I'm just looking for a reliable fix, Paul.
PS the gears that keep splitting in half are the two #38 gears to the right side of the machine. Hi Paul, I would agree that 1/8' is a heavy cut for a portable planer.
I would not exceed 1/16' in a pass. I think that the deep cuts are causing excessive stress to the sprockets which in turn causes them to fail prematurely. Another thing to keep in mind is that although cedar is a very soft wood it is also a very abrasive wood. It will dull your knives much faster than most hardwoods will.
Dull blades require a lot more power to operate and cause much more stress to the planer. I know that reducing the depth of cut will increase the time it takes to get the job done but it will certainly help to make your planer last longer. Hi Ron, I would suggest sending the knives out to a good sharpening service. You will likely get the best results that way for the least amount of money. There are planer knife honing stones available but they won't remove any nicks from your knives or be of much help if the blades are very dull. There are many sharpening systems on the market that have attachments for sharpening planer knives. Tormek is by far the best of these systems and also the most expensive.
Jet makes a copy of the Tormek that looks very nice. Makita offers a nice sharpening machine made just for planer and jointer knives. I hope this helps!